I am going to bed the new CZ 452 Silhouette I have.
I noticed the front screw lug is on the barrel and is loose in the dovetail cutout for it?
are they all loose like that or did mine just not get staked in place?
I was considering steel bedding or soft silver soldering the lug to the barrel (44/40) and the use a pillar in the stock.
Am I overdoing this (again)??????????

I would say yes you are over doing it. Here is what I did to mine for bedding. Tossed a few thin washers between the action and the stock on the mounting screws to get the action to ride up out of the stock a tad and at least float the barrel from the lug forward. I know some people don't think this trick works but as far as I could tell it was just fine. Shot groups easily under 1.25-1.5" at 100. If you haven't done the trigger upgrade yet that is where I would start out.



Dee

I have 2 silhouette stocks, one I have been modifying and the other is stock. The modified one I epoxied a spacer in the front lug hole and then free floated the barrel and bedded from the rear of the action to the front lug. The unmolested stock I just played with the torques. They shoot the same.
The unmolested stock I ended up with 22/20 R/F torque settings.

I will tell you if you are trying to get it to shoot and it isn't happening with SK/Wolf try Eley. My gun won't shoot SK and after messing around with everything including recrowning I finaly figured out that it was ammo.

Good luck.

Thanks Dee,

I think I try that before I do my over the top "over do".
The proof in on the paper for sure.

"If it is worth do it is worth overdoing"

I am new to these CZ's what trigger mod are you referring too?

Go to RFC and look in the stickies for the poor man trigger mod. That is all I have on mine and I am lucky enough it worked out pretty well.
The JP firing pin spring is also nice.

I think that the pillars are overdoing it. I believe for a 22 a good glass bedding job is plenty. When the glass is curing. don't have either one of the screws tight so you don't induce any possible bending in your action.

cedestech wrote:Go to RFC and look in the stickies for the poor man trigger mod. That is all I have on mine and I am lucky enough it worked out pretty well.
The JP firing pin spring is also nice.

Thanks a bunch this Mod looks like a good deal, nice and simple.

OLd_Sarge wrote:I am going to bed the new CZ 452 Silhouette I have.
I noticed the front screw lug is on the barrel and is loose in the dovetail cutout for it?
are they all loose like that or did mine just not get staked in place?

To answer your question, yes - they're all loose like that. Some people have put a dab of epoxy in the dovetail, installed the lug, then installed the action in the rifle, making sure to center the barrel before tightening the action screw and barrel lug screw so that the barrel lug is then glued into the proper position in the dovetail. Some folks found that they got better accuracy out of the rifle by removing the barrel lug and relying on the action screw to retain the barreled action (since the barrel then can truly float).

I have a 452 Varmint and a 452 Style, which both have the barrel lug and I just torque the action screw and barrel lug screw to the torque settings that I've found work the best for me and leave it at that. I did sand out the barrel channel in the synthetic stock of the Style and put a thin washer between the bottom of the barrel lug and the recess in the stock so that the barrel floated better.

Pete Bansen
Truckee, California

I just bed the actions and then remove the barrel lugs from my CZ 452 rifles with single action screws. If you want to leave the barrel lug in there, at least long enough to do your own accuracy testing, then you can just use a short set screw of the appropriate size/thread pitch and lock the lug to the barrel that way. It's a lot easier to do and to remove than epoxy or any sort of welding.

I removed the barrel lug and pillar bedded using lamp hardware and Devcon steel putty - the single screw seems to be enough. The barrel is floated from just behind the former lug locaton to the end of the forearm. Interestingly enough, I too have not had great luck with Wolf/SK and found that Eley Target (about the same money as SK Standard Plus) shoots much better (your mileage may vary, of course - I certainly wouldn't count anything out until you try it).

Kid

Thanks for the ideas all,

I am going to bed he action, at some point just "cus" I can

I have a new Tim trigger group on the way, the mod I found helped a lot and is not to shabby, but I want a bit more out of it.

Hi, new here and the thread is really helpful for me, could anyone please let me know about the bedding size?

OLd_Sarge wrote:I am going to bed the new CZ 452 Silhouette I have.
I noticed the front screw lug is on the barrel and is loose in the dovetail cutout for it?
are they all loose like that or did mine just not get staked in place?
I was considering steel bedding or soft silver soldering the lug to the barrel (44/40) and the use a pillar in the stock. Am I overdoing this (again)??????????

Is the barrel free floated now? Screws torqued? Selected your target/match ammo? How does it shoot at 100 meters w/o doing any type of bedding?

The front lug does no need to be locked down, it is designed to allow the barrel to center itself in the stock, don't over torque either screw in that stock usually 12-14 in lbs will shoot as good as its going to in that synthetic stock. Adding pillars is over rated to in a rimfire, bedding with Pro Bed or similar is all thats needed, I know this as I have done many and pillars dont make a bit of difference in a rimfire thats bedded correctly.

I realize this is waaaayyy late to the thread, but as far as bedding a 452 goes, the below link is as good as it will likely ever get in my opinion.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... p?t=553469