Rings: Is taller better?

Sophia · Post by **Sophia** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 6:17 pm

Another rookie question here:

The rifle is an Anschutz 64 MS. The previous owner left a set of weaver bases on it that are just about 3/8" tall (appears to have the effect of a 1/4" riser). I have a Bushnell Elite 4200 on the way and am shopping for a set of rings to get the scope on the rifle. At various places on the web I've read:

1) low-mounted scopes are best as they keep the axis of sight close to the axis of bore (I should get the standard "medium" or even "low" rings).

2) high mounted scopes (within the class limits) are better as they allow sighting without craning the neck down (I should get the "tall" or even "extra tall" rings).

How about it? Do low mounts give any benefits? Are tall rings the way to go?

nanaimoman · Post by **nanaimoman** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 6:44 pm

I used to have high rings and mounts, but now I go as low as I can for a better cheek weld.

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:36 pm

I use a Mark Pharr stock now with a high comb. With that, I use the rings that line the scope up correctly with my eye when I have a good, solid cheek weld without tilting my head forward. This is going to be a personal choice decision. I know some of the best shooters that have very high mounts to keep their heads more erect while others have lower mounts to get good cheek weld. For silhouette shooting, ignore the "closer to the bore line is better" adage for mounting scopes as low as possible. I don't even like that line for hunting scopes, and it's just wrong for silhouette shooting.

BlauBear · Post by **BlauBear** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:25 pm

High rings are more comfortable to me, but it always comes down to what works best for you.

dryfire · Post by **dryfire** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:37 pm

Sophia
The significance of bore line and sight line proximity is lost with silhouette
or any fixed distance target shooting as the scopes are adjusted for the specific distance and left for that bank of targets. This only becomes
more relevant when targets are at unknown distances(hunting) and
bore and sight line are better closer together. As has already been said
adjust your scope for your comfort,relative to your off hand hold and the amount of cheek pressure you like to place against the stock,cheekweld.
Individual ergonomics will largely dictate the setup.

I recently dropped my scope height on my heavy rifle from near max.
1.9" down to around 1" for better cheek pressure which gave
quicker target acquisition and better hold duration.
Half the fun is finding out - for some of us better late than never.

All the best with your shooting
Andrew

Sophia · Post by **Sophia** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:35 pm

Thanks for all the tips, guys. In the end, I think I'll end up with "tall" Burris rings.

The scope arrived today and I just have to say it is a wonderful piece of equipment. While the borrowed Leupold 4-12x hunting scope I've been using was pretty nice, this Bushnell Elite 4200 is oh so much nicer. Everything that moves or twists does so smoothly and has that feel that says "quality." The "clicks" of the adjustment knobs are crisp and certain, and I love the way the drums are marked to show how many revolutions the knob has made. I don't see a way to reset the gauge to "0", but with the markings that are on there I think keeping things straight is just a question of making notes that match each setting to its target type or range.

I mounted the Bushnell using the medium height Weaver rings from the borrowed scope and tried everything on for size. The first thing I noticed was that the objective lens barely clears the barrel -- a bit less than 1/10" of clearance. Probably not an issue by itself, but that doesn't leave enough room to get the lens cap back on the scope. I thought about carving a divot in the plastic lens cap to let it clear the barrel but decided to give up on that after noting that getting my eye in line with the eyepiece at its current height had me squinting through my eyebrow.

I think the extra 1/4" that comes with the tall Burris rings will be just about right <crosses fingers> and ordered them this evening. I can hardly wait for my next "range day."

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:52 pm

Look at the little tiny circle sticking up on top of the turret. Once you're sighted in, unscrew that little circle sticking up until it comes out. Lift the turret off and turn it until the 0, put it back down onto the scope, and then screw the little circle back in. Then do the same for the windage turret on the side.

Sophia · Post by **Sophia** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:55 pm

That thing is supposed to move, eh? It had that look to it but resisted my first attempt at it, and I was afraid to apply tools. I'll give it another go.

Thanks!

Jason · Post by **Jason** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:58 pm

I'd avoid applying tooks if I were you unless you have something non-metal that won't mess up the finish on the turret screw head. It should come loose with a good hard twist with your fingers if you push down on it a little as you turn it. Go ahead and get it loose and then lightly tightened back up before you sight in so you don't have to worry about losing your zero while you're fighting with it.

Sophia · Post by **Sophia** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:41 pm

And (with a slight nod to Freud), I forgot to mention how long this thing is! With the sunshade on, it is just a few inches short of the end of the barrel. Makes her look like the uber-tacticool-sniper tool.

Terribly old hat to all you old-timers, I reckon, but one of these days I'm going to borrow a camera so I can share a pic my little Plain Jane.

dryfire · Post by **dryfire** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:48 am

Sophia
Pleased everything is working out. Looking forward to seeing your
new baby. All the best with your shooting!