Winchester 1892 Miroku

[H.Plummer]

I'm seriously considering doing the modification to eliminate the rebounding hammer on my 45 Colt Winchester 1892. It also desperately needs trigger work.
Has anyone tackled these jobs? I'm all ears.
I've read a couple of good tutorials online but still looking for more info/experiences.

[krgriggs]

I had my gunsmith now deceased put a one piece firing pin in mine and do the trigger. I know turnbull does the one piece firing pins

[cslcAl]

Look on MarlinOwners.com for info on how to eliminate the rebounding hammer.there is also info on trigger springs.

Al Foust

[edgehit]

My trigger is amazingly consistent at 1-lb 13-oz very time. I attribute this to the EDM wire cut hammer and sear parts. I’ve modified a lot of lever gun triggers and in comparison the Miruko Winchester 1892’s are the most difficult and may potentially injure your eye and hands. Be smart. Figure out how to manage the spring’s compression force before decompressing the spring. I nearly ruined a $1500 Apple 5k monitor when my hammer went flying. Wear safety glasses when handling this spring!

Don’t expect good results if you’ve never performed a 1892 trigger job on a vintage Winchester. My directions are brief and I’ve skipped a few details like how to perform a JB Weld trick at a hammer sear. If you cannot decipher the steps then have a pro do the job.

Disassembly: cock the hammer. Capture the hammer spring in a compressed condition with a pin in strut hole to enable safe disassembly of the trigger group. Remove the hammer screw and slide out the trigger assembly then drop out the hammer. Figure out a way to safely decompress the hammer spring without injuring your hand or fingers. I’m not joking! This spring is crazy strong to override the rebound.

Spring mod: mark the strut tip that contacts the bottom of the hammer with a sharpie marker. Cut off the bottom strut that you marked. Cut off 2 coils from the spring. Belt sand the cut spring to restore the flat.

Removing the finger lever interlock safety is optional.

Decrease the hammer sear engagement using the JB Weld trick and set the sear engagement.

Trigger return spring mod: The trigger return spring needs to be narrowed and thinned to reduce overall trigger weight. It will likely need some additional reshaping to lighten the overall trigger pull. I used my Lyman trigger scale to confirm the trigger spring’s pull weight was below 2-lb without hammer or its spring. You cannot skip this step unless you like a 4-lb trigger.

Safety: remove the tang safety or keep it. I didn’t remove the hammer blocking safety. I can use the safety for dry firing and not damage the firing pin.

Recapture the hammer spring: safety alert! Keep a firm grip on the hammer and assembly during this step. Insert the hammer and its screw in the trigger assembly. Insert the spring and modified strut then compress the spring and capture it with a pin by rotating the hammer. Reassemble the rifle and test the trigger for correct operation.

Test! You need to attempt to bump the fully cocked hammer off the sear by jostling the rifle, bumping the stock, and quick lever cycling. It needs to be 100% without any unintended hammer releases. If there’s failure, remove a smidgen of JB to increase the sear engagement. You can get this trigger to 1-1/2 lb at this point by adjusting the trigger return spring force on the trigger. Do not reduce the sear engagement unless there is creep. Modify the trigger weight by modifying the trigger return spring.

[H.Plummer]

Joe,

I greatly appreciate you taking the time to post such a detailed response. If I decide to undertake this project I will heed your warnings, and if you don't mind, I may send you a pm.
Let me also clarify that the biggest issue with my trigger is the crunchy, inconsistent creep before it breaks. I can live with heavier pull, but I need it to break smoothly and consistently every time.
I wish you were my next door neighbor!!
Thanks again,
Lonnie

[TheBugFather]

Lonnie, take Joe's precautions please, here are some pictures to help.

1. Cut off most of the lower Y fork ( # 41 in picture) that engages the back of the hammer
and bend the other one (the one actually pushing the hammer) up slightly.
This gets rid of your rebounding hammer.

2. Cut two coils as Joe described off of the hammer spring (#40 in picture)

3. In the bottom tang, you will find a trigger sear flat spring (#66a in picture),
you need to file down the thickness of the spring to half of what it was.
Take most of your metal out of the middle 2/3 rds of the spring closest to the sear (#60 in picture).

4. You can clean up the engagement surfaces between the sear and hammer and add some lube.
if you want to try the JB weld adjustment, go for it.

The creepy pull on the trigger comes from the negative angle between the hammer and the sear,
and how much engagement surface you have to cover when pulling the trigger.
That is what the JB weld takes care of or you can remove some of the engagement surface from the hammer (can't go back)

If you look very carefully at the hammer, as you pull the trigger, you might see it actually go very slightly backwards before it lets off.
That is you fighting against the negative lawyer angle from the factory.

Watch out for the small springs and pins, take pictures so you know where things go.

You can get a sub 1 lb trigger, but I like mine a little heavier at about 1.5 lbs.

Browning (www.browning.com) currently sells all the parts directly.

Picture is from an earlier post about going too light.


Dennis Ostler

[H.Plummer]

Dennis,
Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! Truth be told, I'm not too sure I want to tackle this project. I might have a rifle for sale....

[TheBugFather]

Not as hard as it looks, the one thing that will reduce your trigger pull the most is that 66A spring.

If the only thing you do is run a ceramic stone on you hammer
and polish it up a bit and lighten up that 66A spring, you will feel a load of difference.
I suggest using a dremel tool, just go slow.

The rebounding hammer is not really a problem, it mostly just doesn't give you that satisfactory feel of the hammer falling.

Where most people get in trouble (ME) is dealing with the case ejector spring area, just look at some video's,
It took me a little bit to figure out that you need to use and keep a spent brass case in the action, to keep things lined up.

You have a nice rifle, you really can't break it beyond repair, give it a try.

Next thing you know is you'll be working on other peoples rifles soon after.

Dennis Ostler