Coors Light..in otherwords the Swiss and Italians have been in town, upstream of the brewery in Golden.

Innocent

Thanks again everyone for the input.

Jerry - thanks for all the work on your website. I've found it very helpful.

Noah

I use a sloped Farrell 20 min. rail on my Rem 700 HP and think it's best if affordable and available for your use.
I see that some of us shim in bottom of the rear ring and Bob shims under the rear base. Which is best, or least worst ?
It would be interesting to know what most serious f class shooters do.

Boyd L. wrote:

Trent wrote:And for gods sake don't use crappy beer cans. Buy the good stuff!

What?!?!?!? I've never seen a "crappy" beer can.

Here are a couple... there are many out there to choose from.

I'm just doing my part to save you guys from a headache... and diarrhea.

kemo sabe wrote:I use a sloped Farrell 20 min. rail on my Rem 700 HP and think it's best if affordable and available for your use.
I see that some of us shim in bottom of the rear ring and Bob shims under the rear base. Which is best, or least worst ?
It would be interesting to know what most serious f class shooters do.

Sometimes it depends on the mounts/bases. With a grooved rimfire mount, it is almost an obligation to have tapered mounts or, shim under the scope tube. On the typical high-power base you can put a shim under it. I believe most people would prefer it under the base if at all possible.

Jerry

Just to let folks know, I had to shim the scope. Couldn't get enough elevation for the 100 yd zero. Used two pieces of aluminum under the scope. The 100 yd zero is now just above mid-point of the adjustment range. Using BKL-257H rings.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Noah