Lonnie, take Joe's precautions please, here are some pictures to help.
1. Cut off most of the lower Y fork ( # 41 in picture) that engages the back of the hammer
and bend the other one (the one actually pushing the hammer) up slightly.
This gets rid of your rebounding hammer.
2. Cut two coils as Joe described off of the hammer spring (#40 in picture)
3. In the bottom tang, you will find a trigger sear flat spring (#66a in picture),
you need to file down the thickness of the spring to half of what it was.
Take most of your metal out of the middle 2/3 rds of the spring closest to the sear (#60 in picture).
4. You can clean up the engagement surfaces between the sear and hammer and add some lube.
if you want to try the JB weld adjustment, go for it.
The creepy pull on the trigger comes from the negative angle between the hammer and the sear,
and how much engagement surface you have to cover when pulling the trigger.
That is what the JB weld takes care of or you can remove some of the engagement surface from the hammer (can't go back)
If you look very carefully at the hammer, as you pull the trigger, you might see it actually go very slightly backwards before it lets off.
That is you fighting against the negative lawyer angle from the factory.
Watch out for the small springs and pins, take pictures so you know where things go.
You can get a sub 1 lb trigger, but I like mine a little heavier at about 1.5 lbs.
Browning (
www.browning.com) currently sells all the parts directly.
Picture is from an earlier post about going too light.
Dennis Ostler