Cleaning an Anschutz 1808 msr

[jaja]

Since I'm just getting into silhouette shooting, it seems to me that the more I read about it the more questions I have that need answers. This next question is concerned with cleaning the rifle when I get done shooting. Some sites tell me to clean the gun every 1000 shots, 2000 shots, etc. Some say don't clean it at all. Some say don't use a metal cleaning rod or any solvent or run a brass brush through it. What I need to know is what tools, supplies, etc. do I need to get the job done right without damaging the barrel. I recently acquired an Anschutz 1808 MSR so I want to be careful with it. Need answers. Thanks.

[DanDeMan]

22LR barrels all lead just in front of the chamber due to the heel-bullet design, so removing it regularly will reduce leading in the rest of the barrel if the barrel tends to lead.

After about a brick’s worth of ammo (500 rnds) take an oversized cotton patch and push it into the rifling at the front of the chamber with a 22-cal jag that has a conic tip. The patch should be thick enough so that it can't be pushed down the barrel, just into the chamber. When it stops at the rifling, turn the cleaning rod clockwise a few revs while also pushing forward on the rod lightly, then pull it out. There will probably be flecks of lead on the patch, repeat with new patches until there is no lead on the patch. Next, do the same whist turning the rod counterclockwise. The jag will tend to unscrew so use a pair of pliers to make sure it is on tightly. This will insure that there is no lead in the corners of the land-groove junction on the right side of the lands.

Next, pull a dry, 22cal Bore Snake

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/260083 ... 22-caliber

though the barrel from breech to muzzle several times. By following this routine leading will be reduced if not eliminated. Think of it as preventive maintenance.

When testing various brands of ammo, just pulling a dry Bore Snake though the bore a few times between ammo brands will allow for quicker testing. Less ammo and time will be wasted because it will only take a round or two before the next type of ammo “settles-down” and is ready to test for accuracy.

Back in the 90’s I did a lot of 22LR ammo testing using top-notch Anschutz and custom-barreled Anschutz rifles, as well as a few other mutts. Also, a bit of 22LR reamer design was undertaken. Pharr has my last iteration of the 22LR match reamer design effort undertaken back then. For an off-the-shelf 22LR match reamer, the JGS Match reamer is quite good. Poorly designed chamber reamers can cause a lot of grief even when a competent gunsmith fits a top quality barrel to one’s action. I’ve observed that a few too many times in the past. Setting the barrel back and rechambering with a match-grade reamer is the only solution to that predicament. When one’s rifle has an excellent chamber almost any ammo will shoot up to its potential. Sloppy 22LR chambers are the bane of the accuracy buffs.

[boats]

I use a bore guide. Keeps dirt and solvent out of the trigger. If you are using quality match ammo in that Anschutz all the bore needs is a few passes with a oily wet patch. Balistol works as good as anything and not real toxic, easy on stock finish too.

Rough factory bores on cheap rifles or copper coated bullets need more aggressive treatment. Good match rifle less you do better off you are.

Boats

[Jerry G]

Cean the bore when the shot group opens up too much. It seems to be different for every gun. Get a bore guide for THAT rifle and use it every time you clean.

[jaja]

Thanks for the guidance. I'm getting a better idea of what I need to do? So many of my friends were telling me what not to do without telling me what I needed to do. Will the bronze brush on the boresnake damage the barrel in any way? Also, do you need two boresnakes; that is, do I need one that go through the bore dry to pull out lead, copper, etc. and the other one put oil on it when the rifle is going to be stored for any length of time? Can that Balistol be used on a bore snake?

[boats]

Jaja, the aggressive cleaning advice is good, lot of guys follow that plan I just don't for my Anschutz or Douglas barrelled Schuetzen .22's nice and smooth barrels only using waxed standard velocity ammo. I read a piece by Lones Wigger years ago were he belives in aggressive scubbing when his RF rifles open up group. Can't argue with his advice. No doubt he was able to re-barrel with no cost while my 1993 .22 Schuetzen has it's origional barrel with well over 15,000 rounds through it. Rod wear could have been a problem. It's also only shot offhand so bit larger groups at time would never have been noticed.

I put the rifle in a cleaning cradle bore down just a bit insert the rod guide and spray some Balistol down the barrel. Let it sit overnight. Balistol is mostly mineral oil and not very aggressive but does seem to work better if you let it sit. Piece of paper towel under the muzzle shows dirty drips Next morning push clean patches through until the come out clean. Takes 3 or 4 thats it.

Marlin 39A used for Cowboy lever have to be more aggressive, Rams I use copper plated HV ammo. Have two 39A's one with a perfect bore other not so pefect. Either one start with the overnight Balistol then use a bronze brush for a few passes. Takes more on the rough barrel rifle. Then same push crud out with clean patches. Same thing again takes more patches with the rough barrel rifle. Don't use a bore guide on the Marlins since they take down, held in the cleaning cradle upside down no issues with crud drip into the action.

Center fire rifles with Copper jackated bullets I use more aggressive solvet, Hoppes, and brush more. Even the Hoppes if you let it sit wet overnight works better, less brushing. Generaly use a bore guide for the CF's Not for my Marlin CLA 30/30 it's cradled upside down no crud drip.

You don't have do it like I do, oils all have there fans and one is probably as good as another. Most of us have seen a lot of barrels worn by over brushing though. Only brush as much as needed is good advice. Patch and Oil of some kind is pretty standard advice. Big reason I use Balistol is it's mild to the stock finish nose and hand some of the others worry me long term. I don't keep WD 40 in my shop anymore.

I never saw the advantage of a bore snake over simple steel rod and clean patch but some like them. No negative I can see to using one. Shotgunners use them a lot.

Boats

[jaja]

Thanks for all of your insights.

[OldRanger]

Personally I pulled the brass brush out of my bore snake and use that. I put some oil on the front end of it, so it gets a little oil, then the rest of the snake wipes it down and it leaves just the slightest trace of oil. On my last rifle my shot groups seemed to open up a bit after I cleaned it until I had about 20 rounds through it. I never noticed the groups opening up due to dirtiness and I only clean it every 1500 rounds or so. I use qtips on the chamber not a jag and patch, but I may try that next time.

Everyone seems to have their own way of doing it. Benchrest shooters swear it has to be clean to shoot. They run a patch between shots sometimes. I'm not sure how much is mental and how much is actual change. Or how much is chamber design and rifling. I've seen rifles ruined by over cleaning (scrubbing with steel brushes, dunking in solvent etc) so I'm wary of too much cleaning.

[jaja]

I find it interesting that you pulled the brush out of your boresnake. I'm not going to shoot copper coated pullets out of my rifle and I'm only going to shoot standard velocity ammo. Perhaps I don't need to use a brush either given the Eley club ammo that I will use for practice. I really don't like the idea of putting something abrasive through my barrel especially if I don't really need to.I just recently purchased a boresnake but I have not used it yet. It's still new in the package. How did you go about taking the brush out of the boresnake without damaging it?

[Dee]

I only clean mine every half case or so of ammo. Not that it seems to need it as accuracy remains good, I just do it to keep major buildup from happening. Mine is a simple patch worm cleaning and I pull a lot of patches to get it clean. Must be why I only do it every 4-6 months. I do make sure to wipe the bolt face clean and wipe down the bolt good after use.

Dee

[OldRanger]

How did you go about taking the brush out of the boresnake without damaging it?

Very carefully...

I Held the area above (or below) the brush in one hand, then gently twisted the snake so the weave unwound some, then pushed the brush up with the hand that was holding still. After I got one of the ends out I just gently worked the threads off of the brush with a toothpick. Then at the very end I grabbed the part of the brush that was sticking out with vise grips and yanked for all I was worth!

[jaja]

I like your idea. I should be able to get the bore clean without the use of a brush. If I mess up the boresnake, I can always get another one. UPDATE, I didn't mess up the bore snake. I used a pin about the size of a toothpick. I feel this is a better system for cleaning the barrel with no chance of scratching or nicking the rifling with a cleaning rod. Thanks for your insight. Great idea.