Hi!
This is my first post here, though i've been reading for a while.
When i saw the sport of silhouette shooting it got my attention right away. So i thought i'd might give it a try!
Anyways, i have a couple of questions for you guys. Hope you're able to answer these, lol.
1. All these silhouette rigs seems to have super-high scope mounts. Why is that? I've always been told that having the scope as close to the bore as possible will help accuracy.
2. Do you use scope mounts with tilt? Getting a 22 lr to 100 meters often require (depending on the scope, ofc) a sloped mount, otherwise you'll just run out of clicks.
3. I have a 2013 with a near 1" thick, 500 mm lenght barrel. Would this make for a good starting point? Or would it be wise to go for something lighter?

Thank you,
Lars

Hi Lars. I have have never been to Norway but I hear their wood is good. I actually have some product for Norway on my desk right now, that is about as close as I have ever been

Silhouette is strangely addictive in an S&M sort of way. The high mounts you see are due to many people liking to have a heads up position as much as possible. I used to have high rings and riser blocks but recently removed the risers to get a better cheek weld on the rollover. I don't think distance to the bore is a big accuracy issue since the bullet doesn't know how high you have the scope mounted. It may affect your initial numbers and perhaps run out of clicks as you mentioned.

There are a few ways around the click issue. Shim the mounts or the scope about .010 roughly should get you about back to center at 100m or get a mount that has some droop compensation cut into it from the manufacturer. I use shims myself.

As for you rifle I am really not sure it would make offcial rules probably not. But no reason you still can shoot it for now. Do you have a place to shoot silhouette in Norway?

Dee

Hi Eastfield
i use that rifle for silhouette
just need a ligth stock
there is a pic of my

Eastfield, Welcome to the addiction! As for the high mounts, having a more natural stance with head and back introduces less NPA (natural point of aim) error and therefore more consistency in the grouping of the shots. You can get the sights to move the group where you need it, in some cases it may require shimming the scope but not always.
I know they shoot silhouette in Finland, so get it going in Norway and we'll have to make a trip!

Mary

I'm in. Get the lutefisk and lefse ready Lars.

Thanks folks.
chango: What stock is that?

I can see the issue with the NPA, as Mary mentioned here.

You say you shim the bases/mounts, although wont that make for some hefty scope-marks and misalignment?
Whats the reason for all using high rings, and noone using canted bases like the ones from http://www.diproductsinc.com/ ?

EDIT: And lutefisk tastes like s***. Tried it with Akvavit?

A Europeen shoot!!! I like the sounds of it. Imagine what they would think of us. Hammy with the UM rifle, Mary would kill with her Winchester as usual and me and my CZricket.

Any opinions on the scope-misalignment?

In the USA, canted scopes are not allowed. They were used for a while until the rule books specified that they could not be used.

From our NRA rule book.

Sights: any telescopic or metallic sight may be used. Scopes may not be more than 1.5 inches above the
rifle, as measured from the top of the receiver to the underside of the scope tube, nor may the scope be
offset from the centerline of the bore. Exception: for rifles that eject the empty cartridge case straight up
and that normally use an offset scope, the scope may be offset.

Have not had any misalignment (except when putting the shims under the wrong end) and very few scope marks ever noticed when using soda/beer cans.

Mary

Trent: I take that as the scope must sit directly over the bore, and not be sitting on the left or right side, horisontaly (bad english?).
If the sightline of the scope must be 100% true and parallel to the bore it wont matter if you shim your bases or put on a sloped rail. You wont meet NRA requirements anyway?

Mary:

With a shim installed at the rear ring, these two wouldn't perfectly align, and the scope wouldnt be lying perfectly straight in the rings. Get my idea?

For the small amount of shimming we do 2-4 pieces of a soda can, a piece of shim stock or plastic, etc. it doesn't hurt the scope tube, unless your over tightening. There are also tapered mounts and/or Burris Signature Z rings with plastic inserts where you can adjust both windage and elevation (+-5 to 40 MOA).
See this article http://www.snipercentral.com/burrismounts.htm

Eastfield wrote:Trent: I take that as the scope must sit directly over the bore, and not be sitting on the left or right side, horisontaly (bad english?).
If the sightline of the scope must be 100% true and parallel to the bore it wont matter if you shim your bases or put on a sloped rail. You wont meet NRA requirements anyway?

Mary:

With a shim installed at the rear ring, these two wouldn't perfectly align, and the scope wouldnt be lying perfectly straight in the rings. Get my idea?

It doesn't need to be parallel, it just cannot be canted to one side or the other. Shimming or using adjustable rings to gain elevation is totally legal.

Shimming a scope by .002" to .005" (.05mm to .127mm) won't hurt a thing. I believe it was Weaver that actually included instructions on how to do it in their manuals.

Trent, my original Weaver T 10 manual does have instructions for shimming.
Lars, most of the marks I have seen have been from lack of care taken during tightening and from humidity (rain) getting in and not being cleaned up soon after.

Mary

Oh well..
Ok, next question. How do you find out how high rings you should have? Without buying a pair of rings first, then do the trail&error-thing.